But there are a few important things to note about this buzzy ingredient, so keep reading to learn more and find out if it’s right for you. Here’s how it works: “Niacinamide Increases production of ceramides and fatty acids, two key components of the skin’s outer protective barrier,” Goldfaden explains. In skin care formulas, you can find niacinamide in two forms: nicotinic acid (also known as niacin) and nicotinamide (also called niacinamide), Goldfaden says. The latter, niacinamide, is an essential element in the creation of two important enzymes called NADH and NADPH, both of which play a central role in cellular energy production and the formation of skin lipids, he adds. The bad news is that these enzymes naturally decline with age. However, “The good news is that topical application of niacinamide helps preserve these valuable enzymes that defend your skin against many of the common factors that accelerate aging,” Goldfaden says. In fact, without ceramides, your skin barrier will become compromised. “Skin with inadequate skin barrier functions like eczema and atopic dermatitis have low levels of ceramides in the skin,” clean cosmetic chemist Krupa Koestline once told mbg. What’s more, one study showed that applying a topical formula of 4% niacinamide treated moderate acne just as well as 1% of the topical antibiotic clindamycin. While niacinamide alone likely won’t reduce chronic breakouts (like cystic acne, for example), it is an excellent addition to any routine for acne-prone skin. Given the hydrating properties of niacinamide, this is one ingredient that serves as an A+ remedy for those with dry or sensitive skin who also experience breakouts, as other astringent products formulated for acne-prone skin may contribute to more dryness and irritation. Board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D., calls niacinamide a “great multitasking ingredient,” especially for those looking to calm the skin and improve its appearance without irritation. But supporting the skin barrier is not just about aesthetics: “It protects us from mechanical injury, low humidity, cold, heat, sun, wind, chemical exposure, bacteria, viruses, fungi, and other viruses,” King previously mentioned. And because niacinamide decreases transepidermal water loss (TEWL), it also increases your skin’s protection against harmful topical agents and environmental stressors. Hyperpigmentation can be difficult to treat, especially for those with sensitive skin who can’t tolerate potent retinoids or skin-brightening agents. Plus, those with melanin-rich skin may experience irritation and increased hyperpigmentation from strong exfoliants—which is why niacinamide is a common ingredient in skin care products formulated for melanin-rich skin. Even more, niacinamide has been proven effective in treating melasma. In this double-blind study5, niacinamide was comparably effective as hydroquinone (another skin-brightening agent) with fewer negative side effects. However, niacinamide can be. So, if you’re prone to consistent texture on the skin, consider adding a niacinamide serum to your routine—don’t worry, our top-pick products are listed below. To make the process a bit easier, opt for a niacinamide serum for the sake of efficacy. In the research studies noted above, 2% to 4% niacinamide was most often used and proven effective. While there are certainly products out there with a higher concentration, it’s not essential to reap the benefits—in fact, higher doses may even be irritating (more on that next). So stick with a 2% to 4% niacinamide product, or use it every other day if you’re opting for a more potent formula. As for general face creams containing niacinamide, you likely won’t get more than 2% in those multi-ingredient formulas. Niacinamide is also a safe ingredient to mix with other actives such as AHAs, BHAs, retinol, and even vitamin C. Translation: You can use your niacinamide serum in the mornings and evenings. Plus, with the ability to manage sebum production while providing hydration, niacinamide can be a year-round skin care staple.
