Called Retin-A, retinol, retinoid, or a few other versions, this star skin care item is a derivative of vitamin A. And it garners as much confusion over its moniker as it does praise for its efficacy. The most common terms people refer to it as are retinol and retinoid. Retinoids can include both OTC (over-the-counter) and prescription-strength options (like the aforementioned Retin-A as well as its generic counterpart Tretinoin). If you don’t know what to call whatever version of vitamin A derivative you are using, you can safely say “retinoid”—it’s the most general, sure, but it covers all the bases. Retinols are also usually buffered with other hydrating or soothing actives; since they come in commercial lotions and creams, people tend to think of them as more sensorial appealing than their more clinical counterparts. Those with sensitive skin or an inflammatory skin disease should proceed with extreme caution. This includes anyone with eczema, rosacea, or psoriasis. See, those with sensitivities and are prone to inflammation inherently have a compromised skin barrier, and likely cannot tolerate the potent ingredient. Additionally, those who with sensitized skin may find it too irritating. What do we mean by this? Well, if you’ve recently over-exfoliated, otherwise damaged your barrier, or are simply going through a more sensitive time period, you’ll be be wise to hold off use until your skin gets back to a more calm state. Finally, some people simply do not like the ingredient, and can never get themselves past the the introductory reaction phase. Or they simply opt for more hydrating ingredients as their skin care du jour. This is to say: Even if derms hail this as a superstar ingredient, if you find it’s not for you—don’t sweat it,. And remember: “A little bit goes a long way especially for prescription strength. A green pea size amount distributed to the four quadrants of your face,” says board certified dermatologist Keira Barr, M.D. Additionally, you likely shouldn’t use vitamin C and retinol at the same time (again: it may make ingredients inactive). We recommend vitamin C as your day active, and retinol in the evening. Not to make this more confusing, but some new products are formulated with both retinol and vitamin C in the same juice—in this case it was likely made in such a way that these ingredients do not mess with each others’ efficacy. When this happens stop use for a few days before trying to introduce it back into your routine again. This phasing in period can take anywhere from 2 weeks to several months. It is a type of antioxidant compound called a meroterpene phenol,5 and it’s most abundantly found in the seeds and leaves of the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia), which is native to India. And well before its recent surge in popularity, it actually had a long history of use6 in traditional ayurvedic and Chinese medicine for its ability to treat a variety of skin conditions, including vitiligo and eczema, thanks to its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiproliferative, and antimicrobial properties. But back to its efficacy as a retinol dupe: In one 12-week, triple-masked study, half of the participants were assigned to use a topical treatment containing 0.5 percent retinol, and the other half were assigned to use one containing 0.5 percent bakuchiol. Researchers found that both groups experienced significant but equal improvements in lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, and skin firmness with an overall reduction in photo-aging. The bakuchiol group, however, experienced less dryness, scaling, and irritation. Quite the ingredient, no? Now, you may also see vitamin A oils (such as rosehip seed) hailed as natural alternatives. While these are great oils to include into your routine, they do not increase cell turnover in the same way that retinols or bakuchiol have been shown to.
