The latter involves many of your standard hair care lessons, but the former takes a bit more work: You have to go internal. Here, eight science-backed tips to encourage hair growth—no matter your length goals. In fact, a 2018 research review explains that oxidative stress, an imbalance of oxidants to antioxidants, plays a role in hair loss in adults1. The accumulation of free radicals over time contribute to the hair follicle closing off, thereby limiting growth and eventually leading to shedding. “This oxidative stress will affect the quality of your hair growth. It happens when you have product, dirt, and oil building up around your follicle opening—which is where your hair grows out of—and that buildup starts to slowly suffocate your hair root,” says trained trichologist and hairstylist Shab Reslan. First up, make sure you are regularly washing your scalp with gentle washes. “While shampooing, massage the scalp to increase the flow of blood, relieve stress, and stimulate hair follicles. It’s a win-win!” says hairstylist Miko Branch. Additionally, regular scalp massages have been shown to increase hair fullness2 in small studies, and in some self-reported cases, individuals who gave themselves daily scalp massages, over the course of months, saw hair loss stabilization or regrowth3. While there are limitations to both studies (one being a small sample size, and the other being self-reported), the research suggests there is potential for hair regrowth with consistent standardized scalp massages. How might this happen? Scalp massages encourage blood circulation to the area, which helps deliver vital nutrients and oxygen to the hair follicle. (Learn how to give yourself a tension-relieving scalp massage here.) Let’s explore the essential micronutrient first. There is limited research4 on the use of biotin for hair growth in healthy and nutrient-replete individuals (i.e., including the B vitamin biotin). That’s because it is well established at a mechanistic level that biotin sufficiency is important for healthy hair5, and that a lack of biotin can lead to hair shedding6.* Inadequacy of this particular nutrient is not an issue most people will run into, as biotin deficiency is relatively rare in the U.S. Of note: suboptimal biotin levels may be more common in pregnancy7 and in those with hair concerns. For example, a 2016 research investigation found close to 40 percent of women dealing with hair loss had biotin deficiency8, too. And while biotin supplementation might not lead to long, luscious locks for people with healthy scalps and hair follicles, research suggests it may be beneficial for those with poor hair and nail growth.9* As mbg’s vice president of scientific affairs, Ashley Jordan Ferira, Ph.D., RDN, explains, “While research is limited on biotin as a stand-alone supplement on hair growth, a 2015 publication10 reports on biotin supplementation via a multi-ingredient complex in a randomized, placebo-controlled trial in 30 women dealing with thinning hair—and the significant results observed included increased hair growth and less hair shedding.”* Ferira expounds further, saying “To be clear, in this 2015 RCT study, biotin was part of a larger blend including marine bioactives from shark and mollusc powder, plus the minerals zinc and silica, as well as vitamin C from acerola cherries. Thus, extrapolating the study’s promising effects to biotin alone is simply not possible based on the research to date." More research is certainly warranted for micronutrients and hair growth11 (and welcome for all the biotin aficionados out there!) And what about collagen peptides for hair health? Well, to be clear: “Collagen is not a component of hair,” Rachel Maiman, M.D., board-certified dermatologist at Marmur Medical, once told mbg. “But the main component of hair, about 95% of it, is the protein keratin.” This hair protein has a specific amino acid sequence including cysteine, serine, glutamic acid, glycine, and proline. Since collagen peptides deliver these key amino acids, a targeted collagen hydrolysate supplement (e.g., one that is from a high-quality source such as grass-fed, pasture-raised cows) can help provide the body with the very building blocks of hair.* Not sure if your particular collagen supplement is delivering on these amino acids? “Check out the collagen brand’s amino acid profile to see the breakdown of these protein building blocks with more transparency,” suggests Ferira. “This will inform proline percentage and all the other amino acid contributions too.” On top of that, robust research has demonstrated hydrolyzed collagen peptides’ ability to encourage the body’s natural production of collagen, promoting skin hydration, elasticity, and density12. While these collagen-skin health benefits have not been researched for the scalp specifically, theoretically the positive impact could extend there (since the scalp is indeed skin!)* As collagen supplementation research continues to grow, we believe the scalp and hair growth to be important areas where additional research would be very helpful. As we learned when reading about scalp massages, a healthy scalp is the foundation to healthy, full hair.* And while the occasional snapped strand is perfectly normal, having breakage-prone hair can make achieving your length goals nearly impossible. A few things to consider when addressing physical damage: Too-tight hairstyles can cause friction and pulling, so consider using soft hair ties. You should also consider switching up your style regularly so you’re not putting pressure on the same spot day in and day out. For example, “You never want to repeatedly do the same thing to your hair,” says hairstylist Levi Monarch. “Sometimes I see people with thinning at their part, or it might even look like the hairline is receding in that area, and one thing I always recommend is to flip the part. Not only is it healthy for your hair, but it will completely change your look and add volume.” Another way to protect it from physical stressors is how you brush it: You should always brush from the tips up—starting from the root is a recipe for frayed ends. Finally, be mindful of how you are shampooing and showering as hair is most vulnerable when wet. If you wash too aggressively you can cause knots and tangles that are difficult to get out (learn how you should actually be washing your hair, here.) Finally, be mindful of how you wear it when you work out: Since most of us keep the hair out of our faces when moving, we often pull it tight. Too-tight hairstyles, as noted above, cause friction. Wear one of these styles—like a braid for example—when working out to lessen the risk. The research as to why moisture is so important for hair is fascinating13, too: If your hair is dry and brittle, you likely have open cuticles. “Your cuticle is your outermost layer of hair; it’s the protective layer of your strand,” says Monarch. When cuticles are open or lifted, it means they are not sealed down; this allows moisture to escape easier. (Some people are just more prone to this, while others may have open cuticles from chemical hairstyling, like coloring). However, conditioning agents can actually help seal the cuticle down. This not only helps trap in water and your hair’s nutrients, but a closed cuticle means less friction between the strands—which in turn, also means less breakage. Everyone’s hair needs are going to be different, of course, so for some a simple conditioner will do the trick, while others will need weekly hydrating hair masks and oil concentrates. One way that research has shown to help hair aging is antioxidants14, as they help combat oxidative stress and neutralize free radicals. “Your body needs adequate nutrients to support healthy hair,” says registered dietitian Jessica Cording, M.S., R.D., CDN, “Vitamin C, for example, plays a really big role in promoting collagen production and that helps strengthen hair.”* This is why mbg’s beauty and gut collagen+ supplement contains not only high-quality collagen peptides, but also the antioxidant vitamins C & E, turmeric, sulforaphane glucosinolate, and more bioactives (hyaluronic acid, L-glutamine) and micronutrients (hello, beloved biotin).* You can also take advantage of topical antioxidants, in the form of hair oils, serums, or sprays, which are especially in combating oxidative stress that comes with UV rays or pollution. Just look for products that contain vitamins or other common antioxidants like vitamin E (aka tocopherol). “The journey going from short to long hair can feel daunting,” says Branch. “But protective hairstyles are wonderful for growing hair out, transitioning between two different hair textures (i.e., textured versus straightened), minimizing the daily hair routine, covering the ends of hair, and safeguarding natural hair against harsh seasonal elements and damaging environmental factors.” A few examples she recommends: flat twists, cornrow ponytails, and box braids. “But switch these out every two weeks and give yourself breaks between them,” she says to avoid scalp tension, since chronic too-tight hairstyles can cause hair loss. “Protective styles are simply those that help those with kinky, coily hair to prolong their time between wetting and re-styling so you aren’t causing regular damage,” says Dicky. He also notes that the prep is just as important as the style. For example, if you have a really tight texture, blow-dry the hair first and load up on leave-in conditioners so the hair is sufficiently hydrated. If you have a looser curl type you can style the hair while damp. Heat styling works by breaking down the hydrogen bonds in hair15—that’s how it restructures and restyles your hair pattern (be it straightening curls or adding curls to straight hair). And when you do this too much, it can lead to suboptimal moisture in the hair. One study found that regular styling with hot tools significantly decreased moisture content16. If you do use a hot tool, make sure to use a heat protectant that can stand the heat: Look for something that will protect up to 400°F (how hot some blow dryers and irons can get) or if you use natural oils, the higher the smoke point, the better. Hair growth stems from the follicles on our scalps, not the ends of our hair; that said, shearing off dead ends doesn’t actually affect the follicles up top. However, what it does do is it helps keep breakage at bay. Breakage, of course, will get in the way of your length goals. “When you have split ends, what happens is the hair slowly splits up the shaft, which leads to slower growth,’” says celebrity hairstylist and Biolage brand ambassador Sunnie Brook. Regular trims are the only way to eliminate those frays (read: you cannot heal or restore dry, broken hair) and thus ensure healthy strands.
