The problem is many people get confused about what an actual “whitehead” is—whiteheads are not the large, tender zits with a big pus-filled center (those are pustules). Instead, whiteheads are not visibly inflamed and therefore are much more subtle. Also, not every whitehead needs to have a white dot at its center; whiteheads can just appear as small, fleshy bumps on the skin. You may not even be able to notice the bumps in your reflection: Sometimes they are so subtle that you can only feel them when touching your face. This type of acne is more often caused by excessive sebum production, occlusive or comedogenic creams or makeup (“Often heavy products with oils can worsen or cause this type of acne,” says board-certified dermatologist Jennifer Herrmann, M.D.), regular friction on a specific area, or humid weather. It can also be hereditary, meaning if you have it, you may just be genetically predisposed to the condition and it is out of your control. Annoyingly, they can also be the result of irritation from skin care products designed to keep them away, notes board-certified dermatologist Kautilya Shaurya, M.D.: “[These can be formed by] causing irritation to the hair follicle by squeezing pimples, chemical peels, or laser treatments.” Closed comedones can lead to inflamed zits down the line, especially when left untreated. That’s why it’s vital to tend to these from the start—you’ll likely save your skin some strife in the long run. Not to mention, if you accumulate enough of them, they can start to change your skin’s texture and overall appearance, making the skin look “congested.” As for in-office treatments, you can get a professional-grade peel or find a trusted derm to perform extractions: “Extractions can be helpful for comedonal acne with your board-certified dermatologist,” says Belkin. Given that we know that closed comedones can also be the result of overexfoliation or acne treatments, it’s vital that you find the right balance. Do not exfoliate to the point of burning or irritation, full stop. And it’s wise to buffer AHAs, BHAs, and retinoids with a soothing, non-clogging moisturizer on top so your skin stays moisturized while sloughing off dead skin cells.
