That’s why we’re here to talk about the two most common retinoids for acne-prone skin: adapalene and tretinoin. Don’t fret; most don’t have but a clue what they are, let alone what they’re good for. And if you’ve done a quick Google search on either of the two, you might feel slightly afraid at the thought of applying these powerful ingredients to your skin. But the truth is, they’re actually not that scary—as long as you use quality formulas and use them appropriately. Thankfully, there are skin care pros to help answer frequently asked questions like what is adapalene and what are the side effects of using tretinoin? “Adapalene penetrates hair follicles and helps prevent and treat acne, exfoliates skin, and minimizes inflammation,” Libby says. Board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D., says that adapalene is a third-generation retinoid that has been studied in numerous trials that show it’s highly effective and has a low risk of skin irritation. In one study, 74% of users found a decrease in acne-induced inflammation1 with the use of this retinoid. Unlike adapalene, you can’t buy tretinoin over the counter. This retinoid is only available by prescription. One of the downsides of tretinoin is the timeline it takes to see results and the possibility of pesky side effects. For example, if you have sensitive skin, this may not be the retinoid for you. Tretinoin works by irritating further to activate cell turnover; you may experience redness, irritation, blisters, and even a change in skin pigmentation. So it’s important to only use this product under the supervision of a doctor. And even with the undesirable side effects, research shows that tretinoin helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles2, correct skin texture and tone, and even reduce hyperpigmentation. Libby agrees and says, “Adapalene is perceived to be less efficacious, but in reality, studies suggest that it has similar efficacy to tretinoin, just with better tolerability.” So if you’re not sure which is best for you, we suggest consulting your dermatologist for a more detailed perspective on which retinoid works for your skin type and concerns. To help reduce or prevent irritation, Libby suggests using the retinoid sandwich technique and apply on the four quadrants of the face and the neck. “In the retinoid sandwich technique, the moisturizer is the bread and the retinoid is the meat,” Libby suggests. “So, apply a thin layer of moisturizer first, then a pea-sized amount of retinoid, followed by another layer of moisturizer.” This will not decrease the efficacy of the retinoid, but it will increase the tolerability of the product.
