Rather than slathering on any spot treatment you can get your hands on, we suggest you pose a question: Why? Why are you breaking out all of a sudden? Because when you get to the root of the issue, you can figure out the best plan of action—and, better yet, keep those pimples from popping up in the future. When it comes to hormonal fluctuations, many point fingers at the menstrual cycle (two-thirds of acne-prone women report having flares before or on their menses1), but acne can also crop up during pregnancy and menopause as well. Stress also ramps up inflammation in the body3, including in the skin, which can exacerbate acne flares4 (all acne stems from inflammation, after all). Not to mention, stress can slow down the healing process after the breakout: “[One study on stress and wound healing5] has shown that stress can slow down healing, which may worsen acne and acne scarring,” says board-certified dermatologist Jaimie Glick, M.D. Additionally, “Environmental pollution may cause acne breakouts,” says board-certified dermatologist Jeanine Downie, M.D., co-host of The GIST Show. The tiny particulate matter6 in the air can sneak into your skin, block your pores, cause inflammation, and reduce oxygen7. That’s why experts say washing your face every night is nonnegotiable (which we’ll explain more later). Molly Knudsen, M.S., RDN, agrees: “Blood glucose and insulin could affect the skin8 in a couple of different ways,” she tells mbg. “First, this spike in blood sugar causes the release of insulin and insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1). Insulin then stimulates the production of androgens (male hormones) that can then lead to higher sebum production in the skin and then lead to acne. Secondly, high amounts of insulin in the blood before or after a meal may make the skin create more skin cells, making acne that’s already present worse.” Then you have benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid: The former actually kills acne-causing bacteria, P. acnes, “and it also helps to break up and remove dead skin cells that clog our pores,” board-certified dermatologist Ife J. Rodney, M.D., FAAD, founding director of Eternal Dermatology + Aesthetics once shared with mbg. Salicylic acid can also penetrate deep into your pores and unclog them at the source, but the BHA also has anti-inflammatory, skin-calming properties, which makes it a bit gentler than BP. Specifically, “Melatonin is critically important for your skin and plays a significant role in skin repair from environmental exposure, UV light, stressors, pollution, and so on. We know that production is only at night—so sleep hygiene is crucial for your skin,” says board-certified dermatologist Keira Barr, M.D., on an episode of Clean Beauty School. “If you’re not resting, you’re not generating that melatonin, and your skin isn’t repairing itself.” To make a spot treatment, Zeichner recommends crushing the aspirin and mixing it in warm water. Next, take a cotton ball or cotton tip applicator, soak it in the mix, and apply to the blemish for three to five minutes. Not to mention, green tea has immediate skin-soothing effects, as the caffeine acts as a vasoconstrictor (meaning, it constricts blood vessels) and helps deflate those tender, inflamed pimples. To make a DIY acne treatment, brew a cup of tea, let the bag cool, and place it directly on your breakout for a few minutes.
